Mylapore symbolises predominance of emotions and feelings but foremost among them are it's revered places of worship in the form of Temples. Most chattels connected to Mylapore have evolved over a period of time but it's the temples that have stood the test of time and right royally gives Mylapore the epithet as the evergreen temple town of Madras.
Having lived around this neck of the woods for over 3 decades, I was ruminating about certain temples that have a vast history running into centuries or in some cases even beyond 1000s of years that truly distinguishes Mylapore on the map in account of it's rustic remnants undergoing changes and still being extant since times immemorial
There have been a number of temples cropping up in recent times but still "Old is Always Gold" and hence the thought of recommending 10 traditional hardcore temples that everyone should visit when they come across this side of the woods. It does contain the tried and tested ones but the list also contains some historic landmarks unknown to even people who have lived around this side largely due to lack of awareness and the fact that some of these are virtually in oblivion.
Without further ado, sharing the roster of temples which every temple loving aficionado should ensure to experience. Categorising this list of 10 by bifurcating it further as 7 Shaivite & 3 Vaishnavite temples.
Shaivite Temples:
1) Kabaleeshwarar Temple
2) Velleeswarar Temple
3) Theerthapaleeswarar Temple
4) Karaneeshwarar Temple
5) Malleeswarar Temple
6) Virupaksheeshwarar Temple
7) Vaaleeswarar Temple
Vaishnavite Temples
8) Srinivasa Perumal Temple
9) Adi Kesava Perumal Temple
10) Madhava Perumal Temple
The 7 Shiva temples have off late got pretty popular in recent times having earned the tag as the Saptha Sthana Shiva Temples of Mylapore. They are not entirely in Mylapore though and few of them sprawl & spread across Triplicane too but they all came under the ambit of erstwhile Mylapore from eons ago. There is even an order of visiting these 7 temples starting with Karaneeshwarar Temple, then Theerthapaleeswarar followed by Velleeswarar with next up being Virupaksheeshwarar, after that Vaaleeswarar with Malleeswarar closely on the heels and then ending finally with Kabaleeshwarar. Truth be told however, cutting to present day, the only temple of this 7 which is extremely well known and frequently thronged happens to be Kabaleeshwarar Temple. It truly represents the signature of Mylapore and also Chennai as a towering iconic cultural landmark. One's journey to Chennai and Mylapore especially would feel like a void when not visiting Kabaleeshwarar. Gulping across those jocular sweet & sour delicacies spawning on all directions across it's precincts is definitely an added plus. Have also observed that when foreigners come on work visits to Chennai, one of the first spots listed out to be shown to them happens to be Kabaleeshwarar Temple with the other being taking them around the side of Mahabalipuram and showing it's rich cultural heritage.
Sharing a brief capsule on these 10 revered temples along with information on its presiding deities and certain rare and unique features
Kabaleeshwarar Temple:
Kabaleeshwarar Kovil can be considered the defacto and default choice when it comes to temples in Mylapore or even probably the whole of the city of Chennai. Easily the standout and Ozymandias of all temples. Seeped in magnificence and breathtaking splendour, it is a sight to behold with its tall 120 feet Gopuram (gateway tower) overseeing the historic Mylapore tank. You would see the wordings inscribed "Kylai is Mylai and Mylai is Kylai" meaning a visit to Kabaleeshwarar is equivalent to visiting Kailash. It possesses separate Sannidhis for a number of deities. It is mentioned that Lord Rama visited this temple and prayed at the Singara Velan shrine before taking the direction towards Lanka. A unique feature is that it has a separate worship space for saint poet Sri Arunagiri Nathar who is believed to have composed devotional songs in veneration of Lord Murugan at this very place. There is also a shrine for Angam Poompavai, a staunch devotee of Lord Shiva who is famous for being resurrected from Ashes by Saint Thirugnana Sambandar. Sage Kashyapa is said to have worshipped at this temple. The energy and vibration exuded from this temple is simply surreal and has to be experienced to be believed. Parvathy Devi is said to have worshipped Shiva in the form of a peacock here. Kabaleeshwarar means "Lord of the Head" with Kabala translating to Head. There is an interesting legend of Lord Shiva plucking off one of the heads of Lord Brahma on account of the latter failing to show the desired respect. Subsequently Lord Brahma is believed to have come here and installed the Shiva Linga to please Shiva and gain back the respect. Inside the Kabali sanctorum, one can view idols of all the 63 Nayanmars with their birth information. It is considered one among 275 Paadal Petra Sthalams which have been spoken of in the holy Tevaram hymns rendered by Tamil Shaivite saints. It is one of the most frequented also one of the largest Shiva Temples. It is the 7th and last to be visited when following the order necessitated while visiting the Saptha Sthana Shiva Temples of Mylapore.
Shiva Name - Kabaleeshwarar
Parvathi Name - Karpagambal
Saptharishi Worship - Kashyap
Velleeshwarar Temple:
Just by the side of Kabaleeshwarar Kovil in close proximity lies the iconic Velleeshwarar Temple. This temple is especially connected to solving eye related issues and there is a decorated history associated with Lord Shukracharya gaining back his eye sight. Legend goes that Lord Vishnu in the form of Vamana requesting King Mahabali for three feet of Land. Lord Shukra suspecting foul play tried to stop this from happening and in the process got pricked on one of his eyes losing his eyesight. Lord Shukra subsequently meditated with intense devotion and got restored his eyesight. Thus the name of the Shiva in this temple is known as Sri Velleeshwarar, the Lord of Shukracharya. "Velli" also translates as Friday which is the day ruled by Navagraha Shukra. There is also a separate enclosure for Lord Sarabeshwarar, the powerful and fierce incarnation of Lord Shiva depicted with a Lion's face coupled with bird wings having 8 legs who is said to have manifested to tame Lord Narasimha's anger. Nearby the sanctum of Velleeshwara Shiva Linga is the shrine for Shiva's consort Kamakshi Ambal. Sage Angirasa is said to have worshipped at this temple. This temple is the 3rd to be visited in order of the 7 famous Shiva temples.
Shiva Name - Velleeshwarar
Parvathi Name - Kamakshi
Saptharishi Worship - Angirasa
Theerthapaleeshwarar Temple:
Theerthapaleeswarar Kovil happens to be the 2nd of the 7 age old historic Saptha Sthana Shiva temples of Mylapore. In todays times it gets classified as located in the vicinity of Triplicane. The Shiva Linga here is said to be consecrated by Sage Agasthya. Legend has it that Sage Agasthya witnessed the wedding of Shiva & Parvathi from Podhigai Malai. On the way home, the Sage fell sick and sat near a Vanni tree to recover from his ailment. Shiva came in his dream and asked to consecrate a Shivaling with sea water at this place and perform Abhishek. Sage performed the same and being happy with his devotion, Lord Shiva cured him from his ailment. The main deities of this temple are Sri Theertha Paleeswarar and Sri Tripurasundari Ambal. It is known to cure from any kind of ailment. The Ganapathi in this temple is known as Pass Granting Ganapathi and hence students are known to worship him for securing good results and passing examinations. Apart from the connection with Sage Agasthya, revered Sage Atri is also said to have worshipped at this temple.
Shiva Name - Theerthapaleeshwarar
Parvathi Name - Tirupurasundari
Saptharishi Worship - Atri
Karaneeshwarar Temple:
The age old ancient Karaneeshwarar Temple is believed to be well over 2000 years old and remnants point out to it being in existence since the 12th century. Karaneeshwara translates to "The Lord who is the cause". Since Shiva is said to be the reason for everything in the universe, he is known to be called so. It's also considered to be the 1st of the 7 predominant Shaivite temples to be visited in Mylai. Sage Vasishta is said to have worshipped at this temple. The Shiva name is Sri Karaneeswara and Ambal name is Porkodi or Swarnalalithambikai. One unique feature about the Shiva Linga here is that it is unlike the usual shape and is in a square form.
Shiva Name - Karaneeshwarar
Parvathi Name - Porkodi or Swarnalalithambikai
Saptharishi Worship - Vasishta
Maleeshwarar Temple:
This happens to be the 6th of the 7 age old Saptha Sthana Shiva Temples of Mylapore. This has a flowery story associated to it as "Malli" means flower and more specifically Jasmine. The Lord got it's name as Malleeswarar as the space was surrounded by Jasmine flowers. The main presiding deities of this temple are Sri Malleeswarar and Sri Maragadhambal. Like the way a flower blossoms, this temple is known to grant Shiva's fragrance towards the utmost devoted and warding off evil thoughts. Offering jasmine garlands is said to help remove marriage hurdles. Legend goes as Prarthan, the king of Ayodhya in deep tapas conducting a yagna for Shiva. Indira tried to disturb the proceedings but was unable to. Shiva impressed by the intensity of the Tapas appeared before him and that bore the formation of this temple. Sage Bhrigu is said to have personally worshipped here. It hosts a number of deities and there is also a Sannidhi here for Anjaneya and Aiyappa. There are also the 4 revered Tamil Saivite Saints known as Nalvar placed together and also a Navagraha Sthala with a separate Saturn shrine.
Shiva Name - Maleeshwarar
Parvathi Name - Maragadhambal
Saptharishi Worship - Bhrigu
Virupaksheeshwarar Temple
This is the 4th out of the 7 decorated Saptha Sthana Shiva temples in Mylapore. It is also one of the oldest temples in living memory having seen its construction as early as the 7th century. The Shiva Linga here is of a giant size and it is believed that Rishi Kutsa worshipped at this temple. Sundaramurthy Nayanar is said to have seen the Rudra Thandavam dance of Lord Nataraja here. Virupaksheeshwarar means one with three eyes. Lord Shiva is said to possess a divine third eye and is said to fulfil devotees wishes just through his vision. There is a tank surrounding the temple and those with ailments are said to be cured by the holy water from this tank called Sivagangai. The Lord's Name is Virupaksheeshwarar and Goddess name is Visalakshi. You have Bhairava and Surya Bhagwan side by side inside the main temple enclosure. Surya's son Shani also has a separate enclosure.
Shiva Name - Virupaksheeshwarar
Parvathi Name - Visalakshi
Saptharishi Worship - Kutsa
Vaaleeshwarar Temple
This is the 5th of the 7 Saptha Sthana Shiva Temples in Mylapore. Vaali, the king of monkeys and brother of Sugriva is said to have worshipped Shiva at this temple to gain strength and hence the name came about as Vaaleeswarar (Vaali praying to Ishwar). It's expanded as Varam Tharum Valeeswarar meaning "Blessings Fulfilling Ishwar". This temple is believed to have been visited by Sage Gowthama. The Shiva name is Vaaleeswarar and Ambal's name is Periyanayagi. This temple though supposedly over 1000s of years old is well renovated and possesses shrines for a number of deities. A separate Sannidhi is provided for Sage Agasthya. Another rare insight was the presence of separate chambers for Moon (Chandra) at the left and Sun (Surya) at the right guarding the temple enclosure. Apart from Sun & Moon, there is a solo Sannidhi for Navagraha Saturn (Shani) as well.
Shiva Name - Vaaleeshwarar
Parvathi Name - Periyanayaki
Saptharishi Worship - Gautama
Srinivasa Perumal Temple
This was originally and even now referred to as the Vedantha Desikar Temple. Initially it was believed to have only housed the idols of Acharya and Lakshmi Hayagriva. The main deities namely Srinivasa Perumal and Alarmel Mangai Thayar got inducted only about a century back. It has become very popular since then with year round Utsavams being conducted. There is a very beautiful Sannidhi for Poetess Andal and you would also see shrines of various other deities. Wall paintings depict the life history of Acharya Vedantha Desikar.
Vishnu Name - Srinivasa Perumal
Lakshmi Name - Alarmel Mangai Thayar
Adi Kesava Perumal Temple
This would rank as probably the most well known and oldest Vaishnava temple in this vicinity. Both Srinivasa Perumal Temple and Adi Kesava Perumal Temple are located besides each other. The main Adi Kesava Temple at Thiruvattaru near Kanyakumari happens to be one of the Divya Desams, This temple of Adi Kesava however has a vast & rich history associated with it and considered as one among 108 Abhimana Kshetras. This temple is considered to be the birth place of Peya Alwar, one of the 12 renowned Alwar Saints paying glory and homage to the Vaishnava tradition. He is also believed to have taken the incarnation of Lord Vishnu's divine sword Nandaka. You would see wall paintings depicting his birth story in the temple precincts. The temple also depicts carvings of 12 different Vaishnava forms of the Lord namely Vishnu, Madhusudhana, Trivikrama, Vamana, Sridhara, Rishikesa, Padmanabha, Damodara, Kesava, Narayana, Madhava and Govinda. The main deities as mentioned happens to be Adi Kesava Perumal and his consort Mayuravalli Thayar. There are shrines for a number of other deities including Andal, Anjaneyar, Garuda, Chakra Thalwar, Narasimha etc. There is also a shrine for one other Alwar viz Thondai Alwar. One unique and rare feature worth noting is that Lord Rama inside is not only with Seetha, Lakshmana & Anjaneya but also alongside his 2 other brothers Bharatha and Shatrugana. The goddess Mayuravalli Thayar is worshipped with Bilva leaves and it is believed that apart from the Goddess, both Shiva & Parvathi also worshipping Adi Kesava Perumal to get relieved of curses. The hallowed tank beside the temple known as 'Chitra Kulam' belongs to the Adi Kesava management and one would be privileged to witness the Theppotsavam festival where the Lord and his highness decorated in delectable demeanour are driven on a boat like structure (float) called Teppam across the water bank which happens to be a truly golden spectacle to witness this celestial ride.
Vishnu Name - Adi Kesava Perumal
Lakshmi Name - Mayura Valli Thayar
Madhava Perumal Temple
This is another really beautiful Vaishnava temple spanning many centuries. This temple happens to be located very close to the house where Peya Alwar lived notably in the South East street from this sacred abode and there also happens to be a beautiful deity of this revered Alwar in the temple premises. The presiding deity Madhava Perumal is married to Amrita Valli Thayar who happens to be the daughter of Sage Bhrigu. As Bhrigu is associated with Shukra (Venus) denoting the significations of love & marriage, the Lord is also honoured with the designation of Kalyana Perumal (Wedding Deity). Hence it is a temple which is favourable and auspicious especially when praying for marriage to culminate. There are a number of shrines hosting a number of Gods & Goddesses and you will find a really beautiful space dedicated to Bhoo Varaha Perumal. Andal makes her solitary presence in this temple akin to what you would see in Srinivasa Perumal and Adi Kesava Perumal temple. This temple also possesses a small river bank and during the month of Maasi (approx mid February to mid March), the presiding deity of Madhava Perumal is seen taken on a float.
Vishnu Name - Madhava Perumal
Lakshmi Name - Amrita Valli Thayar
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